Planning out the gardens :D

For the past few days, I have been figuring out what we would like to plant into the grounds of the Butterfly Forests Homestead. ūüôā We shall be planting various herbs, fruit bearing trees, flowers, veggies, berries, etc.

Here is the current list I have written in my notebook, while taking breaks from training for a section of the long trail hike. I will be updating and modifying each list as I learn of the micro-climates upon the property, using a solar pathfinder, obtaining soil tests, grotech reports, and simply sitting and observing the weather conditions. ūüôā

I will be narrowing each list down, pairing in groups [polycultures] and all of the nitty-gritty research/details.

Flowers for bees and butterflies: [Also for dry, cut and sell into biodegradable pots]

-Allium                -Fennel               -Buddleja
-Lavender           -Sunflower        -Scabious
-Cornflower       -Heather             -Verbena Bonariensis
-Bee Balm          -Campanula       -Globe Thistle
-Borage              -Delphinium       -Echinacea
-Comfrey           -Thyme                -Mint
-Salvia               -Yarrow               -Butterfly Bush
-Crocus              -Catmint              -Blackeyed Susan
-Cosmos            -Dahlia                 -Cranesbills
-Milkweed       -Hollyhock           -Poppy
-Alyssum         -Phacelia

Trees to plant: Nut, Stone Fruit, Overall Fruit Bearing & Special Trees [In greenhouse and outdoors]

-Kauri           -Black Walnut      -Almond
-Pear             -Sweet Cherry      -Avocado
-Banana       -Mango                  -Cara Cara Orange
-Rainbow eucalyptus tree       -Hazelnut
-Green Tea Plant                       -Peach
-Honeycrisp                               -Blood Orange
-Fig

Vegetables:

-Cucumber                 -Carrots                              -Spinach
-Kale                            -Celery                               -Purple Corn [Tortilla chips and for wraps]
-Arugula                     -Beets                                 -Sugar-Snap-Peas
-Tomatoes                  -Butternut Squash           -Brussels Sprouts
-Sweet-Peppers        -Cauliflower                      -Broccoli
-Sweet Pumpkin      -Grape Tomatoes              -Artichokes
-Asparagus               -Butter-crunch Lettuce    -Jalapeno Pepper
–Purple Tomatillo¬†¬† -Chard (Beta Vulgaris)

Berries and Fruit:

-Strawberry        -Blueberry         -Raspberry
-Passion Fruit    -Watermelon     -Black Currants
-Blackberry       -Table Grapes    -Goji Berry
-Kiwi                   -Dragon Fruit    -Honeyberry
-Mulberries¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬† -Melon¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬† –

Roots, shoots and legumes:

-Peanuts                 -Ginger                    -Turmeric
-Purple Potato      -Sweet Potatoes     -Watercress
-Onion (sweet)     -Scallions                -Chives
-Garlic                   -Chia

Herbs: [Some have already been mentioned from bee & butterfly flowers]

-Comfrey              -Sweet Basil           -Sage
-Rosemary¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬† -Tyme¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬† -St. John’s Wort
-Mugwort            -Skullcap                -Mint [spearmint and common]
-Oregano             -Lemon balm        -Stinging Nettle
-Lemongrass      -Mullen                  -Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)
-Calendula¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬† -MńĀnuka¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬†¬† -Cornflower [Bluebottle]
-Heather            -Marshmallow      -Hollyhock
-Sneezewort       -Yarrow                 -Sweet Violet
-Red Clover        -Nasturtium          -White Clover
-Soapwort          -Elder                     -Clary
-Blackberry       -Raspberry            -Rosemary
-Dog Rose          -Black Currant     -Lungwort
-Selfheal            -Silverweed          -Dwarf Milkwort
-Marjoram        -Catmint                -Common Poppy
-Watercress     -Peppermint         -Common Mallow
-Flax                  -Motherwort        -Garden Lavender
-Garden Iris    -Hyssop                 -Hepatica [American Liverwort]
-Sunflower      -Wood Avens       -Downy Hempnettle
-Rosebay Willowherb      -Meadowsweet      -Wild Strawberry

Herbs [Continued]:

-Coriander       -Tansy                          -Feverfew
-Chamomile    -Scented Mayweed    -Dalmatian Pyrethrum
-Caraway        -Pot Marigold              -Borage
-Daisy             -Tarragon                     -Kidney Vetch
-Mountain Everlasting                      -Dill
-Garden Angelica                               -Alkanet
-Garlic ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬†¬† -Onion ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† -Lady’s Mantle
-Cilantro

Sprouts and Planned Microgreens:

-Amaranth (Microgreens)        -Alfalfa          -Pac Choy (Microgreens)
-Green Chard (Microgreens)    -Red Russian Kale (Microgreens)


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My little rant on CCD

[It’s not really a rant, just found out why we have CCD in North America: Colony Collapse Disorder and how to properly fix it]. ūüėČ ūüėõ ‚̧
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There’s no mystery why we have CCD [which isn’t actually a disorder]. It pretty-much has all to do with monocroping, conventional beekeeping standards and messing around with the species gene-pool/DNA themselves; causing them to weaken, due of our over-meddling.

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We have been weakening the gene-pool of the European/Western Honey Bee, by:

 

  • GMOs [Yes, there has been studies by reliable scientists who have proven over-and-over again GMOs are harming the Honeybee Populations]. Look it up, not by Monsanto [they cherry pick facts and leave out ongoing studies].
  • Pesticides [bees land on them, the bees carry the pesticide back to the hive, they get sick and die].
  • Feeding the bees sugar water [. . bad idea].
  • In labs you are messing around with their genes [from thousands of years Mother Nature has designed] – natural selection and evolutionary conditioning from the wild [wild animals are by-far more hardier and less prone to diseases, etc in comparison to the man-altered design].
  • Breeding the honeybee to become larger [for larger honey production] gives the varroa mite enough time to mature inside of the egg cell along side the developing honeybee. A European/western Honeybee when in it’s normal-smaller form, they develop faster, before the mite can fully develop – breaking the Varroa-Mite cycle.
  • Not allowing your beehives to swarm [when a hive chooses to swarm; it’s dividing, because it’s grown larger than the beehive can carry]. Allowing the beehive to swarm, creates a stronger-richer gene-pool and increases the honeybee populations. This is also a sign, it is time to create another beehive. ūüėČ ūüôā
  • The chemicals we use to try and kill the verroa mite [parasite] from the colony is deadly and toxic to the hives. It’s been known how the verroa mite is becoming immune to the chemicals we apply.
  • Purchasing nucleolus boxes in the mail from hives from across the country [local hives help strengthen the gene-pool]. Find a local beekeeper and/or look up professional swarm catchers in your area.
  • Feeding your hives honey from stores, as a last result: most honey jars/bottles found in grocery stores have spores.
  • Sending the honeybees across the country to pollinate almonds. Make these almond fields in a permaculture setting [make honeybee food accessible all-year round]. You save money, can produce more varied foods in the off-seasons, have your honeybees already there and not stress-weaken the honeybee populations.
  • Constantly checking on your hives and smoking them. This causes openings for pests, stresses out the colonies, kills bees, opens to honey robbers, weakens bees and is completely unnecessary. The front door of the beehive is an easy visual indicator of how healthy your beehives are. Check at most — once or twice a year, and they’ll trust and like you better. ūüôā

Also:

It was a given the varroa mite [along with other pests to the honeybee] were going to eventually leak into North America. If we actually had healthy-strong European/Western Bees, the Varroa Mite wouldn’t of became an issue.. the bees would of been able to fight them off and be fine. When the colony is suffering, it’s a big red flag something is wrong. If you actually payed attention, used your common-sense, and realised the symptoms are warning you -we wouldn’t have this issue to begin with. Buying packaged bees or by wholesale, doesn’t help the populations win with CCD.. it just masks over for a delusional-temporary ‘fix’ -band aid to the ongoing problem.

Plus:
Honeybees are very visual in communicating something is wrong [one of their main communications is by body language/dances]. We can see it and beekeepers are being shown these messages every day.. You can always find the source, if you take the time and look at the clear “paper trail” [having a journal log entry; writing down your observations]. .. .

So saying: “This is a mystery.” IS COMPLETE BULLSHIT. <– “OOohh! Iris Swears!” ūüėõ Yes, but only for good reasons.

We have the answers on how to stop and reverse CCD, America [commercial, large-scale monocrops and some beekeepers] just choose to not do it. :/ *sighs* So, yeah. .

The Flow Hive 2

Since coming back from a beekeeping 101 class with Daniel, I have learned how much effort one has to go through in order to harvest honey. From hand scrapping the combs [which is in ways, therapeutic to me], to lifting the heavy supers filled with leaking honey into the spinner’s slots, hand turning it, using a strainer to collect the wax particles [to others like legs, etc] then needing to flip the supers… hand turn it again.. filter it again.. yadda, yadda..
*sighs* Well, you get the point of where I am going here. ūüėČ ūüôā

Looking at all of the plans and various other components of the Butterfly Forests Homestead; having four traditional beehives [or even owning one traditional beehive] will simply not do.. Maybe create one conventional bee box, for just the bees and educational purposes. We shall see. ūüôā
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The Flow Hive 2 is an improved system from the original model. From what I have seen videos, etc .. and seeing how much of a pain in the arse it is to approach beekeeping with traditional beehives: this is a by-far better, smarter, bee-friendlier option. ūüôā

Daniel and I [mostly me] will be working heavily on the farm with various tasks, projects and chores. Knowing that owning a traditional beehive will take too-much of my time. The Flow Hive 2 for us is more for the bees, than harvesting really.

Yes, I know I will not be considered a ‘true beekeeper’ since I will not be doing all of the other back-bending work one needs to do in order to harvest, etc with a traditional beehive… but- I will be tending to the girls and still bonding with them. .. Just not squishing them as often, stressing the girls out as often, or causing them to potentially swarm as much like a traditional bee-box design would. ūüėČ

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On a side note: Swarming is a very-good thing, mind you. Beekeepers should allow swarming with their hives, it’s a good sign that the hive is very-healthy and needs to expand into a second colony. ‚̧ ūüôā Yes, if you’re bothering them too-much or over-smoking them – this will cause them to swarm out of fear they are being attacked and the bees think the hive is no longer safe. There are far too-many beekeepers that over-smoke their hives, which is completely unnecessary.

.. Nor am I doing what the conventional beekeeper does [checking on the bees so often]. I will be providing them a lot of food and a good shelter. ūüôā Allow the strong to survive and the weak to die out. This is how evolution keeps species healthy for the next generation. . I will also never spray our bees with pesticides. I will not be so controlling..

Jaqueline Freeman, is an amazing organic Beekeeper to learn from [we have not attended a class from her, as of yet]. ūüôā We shall be using a grand deal of her approaches to organic beekeeping in order to form strong-healthy, happy colonies. ‚̧
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I have nothing against traditional beehives and the practices which go along with it [excluding the smoking part]. I really respect traditional beekeepers in how much hard-work they have to endure and if it wasn’t for the previous design, etc – we wouldn’t have honey; nor would we be able to evolve to the current model of beekeeping. .¬† Traditional Beekeeping is simply not my way of doing it, nor suits the needs of the Butterfly Forests Homestead. . Nor would I consider myself ‘cheating/being lazy’ or ‘missing out’ on what traditional beekeepers experience, by owning a Flow Hive. ūüôā ‚̧

Link to the Flow Hive 2: https://www.honeyflow.com/shop/flow-hive/flow-hive-2/p/388

Brainstorming gardens

Creating a collage of potential fruits, vegetables, herbs, flowers and fruits trees we would like to grow at the Butterfly Forests Homestead. ūüôā ‚̧ This gets the creative-juices flowing and staring the gears into physical planning.

I am cutting out images and the names of the plants/trees out of magazines for now, as a visual start for the process.

Phase two:
Next, I shall create a list of perennial/annual plants and fruit trees we will actually be planting on the property.¬† I will then create a second list of these selected plants and fruit trees into groups of polycultures [also keeping in mind of the four-hundred-and-fifty olive trees on the property]. ūüôā We have plenty of space on the homestead, and quite a few of the gardens shall be encircling olive trees.

Phase three:
F
iguring out what shall co-exist with an olive tree in a guild/polyculture, along with having a list of the basics in need; will help layout what plants and fruit-bearing trees I shall need to plant first. Since, some plants and trees will need more time to incorporate into the soil, grow [mature] and take longer than their guild’s counterparts in producing a yield of food.

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By narrowing down what is needed to be planted first; will give us a better understanding of what our goal-budget will be… I will be planting fruit trees on the property in New Zealand in the three month visit next year, along with flagging, staking, marking out areas, etc.
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Phase four:
I shall be creating a list of tools, items, plants, fruit trees, house materials, etc so to see what our goal will be to save up for the future for a more successful establishment of our home. ūüôā Heaps of careful planning is required for us in such a ‘page-turner’, next year. ūüôā

Part 2: Permaculture Certification C!

Soon Daniel and I shall attend the second part of three, in regards to our permaculture certification course. ūüôā

In this parter, we shall learn upon:

-Agroforestry and Carbon Farming,
-Botany Introduction and field guides,
-Contour Mapping
-Efficient house systems,
-Straw bale houses,
-Deep ecology Introduction

Stay tuned for photographs and further details whence we return.
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On a side note:

Next month I shall be hiking the Vermont section of the long trail. It is a total of eighty-six miles, hiking-up hard terrain and soaking with adventure! ūüėÄ I shall make sure to upload a few photographs of some of the highlights my best feind and I witness. The trip shall take a total of nine days to complete. ūüėÄ

This will challenge me in all ways of myself possible [spirit, body and mind]. Since the beginning of this month [May] I have been training for this adventure. Since I was a teenager, I have wanted to take part in hiking a portion of the long trail. haha ūüėÄ I can finally check this off of my ‘bucket list.’ ‚̧ ūüėÄ

Bioregional Knowledge Self-Assessment

Continuing our in-depth understanding of our property, I have been given an assignment [filling it in earlier than I supposed to] by the permaculture design certification course, by Sowing Solutions. ūüôā

It’s amazing how the more familiar you are with your future homeland, the better-off you shall be. Obvious, common-sense-stuff.. but not many land owners take the time, or think about it. I am very thankful, for being given all of these new ways of thinking, skills and tools from this course. It didn’t even cross my mind to ask such simple questions about the land, it’s wildlife [are there any endangered species in the area?] to others mentioned in this land self-assessment. ūüôā

By looking into what I already know [no cheating! – finding answers I have no-clue about] of the future land of the Butterfly Forests Homestead, allow me to see where I stand in the present day with the bioregional relationships. ‚̧ It’s so important to explore and gain a better grasp of where we live, and how our actions with the land impact the outstretches of our property lines.

I will mention a few questions, but need to give the questions where credit is due. ūüôā
The questions have been adapted and inspired by the ‘Tourist Test’ in Kamana One; Compiled by: Connor Stedman and Kay Cafasso.

1.) What is the name of your local watershed? What larger body of water does that watershed flow into?

2.) What is the source of the stream nearest to your home?

3.) Name one endangered or threatened species of which your area holds a breeding population. Where in the landscape is that population found and what threats exist to it?

4.) Name three “extreme” weather events that are common enough in your area to be relevant in the design of buildings and landscapes. What seasons do these generally occur in, and how frequently?

Fresh Lemon Aid

The little-simple things in life we can make:

Made for the first time, freshly squeezed lemons with local honey [watered down slightly with water]. It’s the first time I have had fresh lemon aid before.

All of the other times I have had lemon aid, was from a frozen concentrated can form or – the carton-type.. The fresh, real-thing is so good! .. I can taste the lemon [no after-taste] and the balance with the local honey, is perfect. It has a lemon-bite to it – but, not in a bad way.

It only took me roughly ten minutes to make a large pitcher of it. We are certainly growing a few lemon trees in the future. One of our friends from New Zealand, mentioned adding ginger root next time. . I’ll certainly do this with the next batch.

Note:
The more golden color – than your classic ‘traditional’ lemon aid, is from the honey. White sugar is commonly used for your ‘classic Americana version’ of lemon aid. I aim for a slightly more healthier version. ¬†

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